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Hand made merge section long tube race header constructed by a header specialist.
Note for now we only can confirm fitment on MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS, 2.0, USA Left Hand Drive! Does NOT fit RHD.
HEAR it now from the tailpipe on the dyno! This full throttle with camera right at the tailpipe so this massively exaggerates the volume but gives you good feel for the character and tone at full throttle. You are hearing the longtube header and midpipe here along with RoadsterSport Super Street muffler not included with this combo.
Why 4-2-1 layout? For the FIRST TIME Mazda included a 4-2-1 layout factory header in the ND Generation Miata and the reason they did it was to make fat midrange TORQUE that makes the ND so quick. Many magazines get 0-60 in stock form at about 6 seconds flat, or even a hair under, which is obviously about the ND Miata's broad torque curve and NOT about the mere 155 peak hp rating at the motor. We tested ND headers in both 4-1 layout as we have done in the past on NC generation Miata, and 4-2-1 layout and quickly understood Mazda thinking...this motor is about TORQUE, and this motor wants a 4-2-1 layout to maximize what this Skyactiv motor is designed to do.
Thus, first thing to know about the Skyactiv 2.0 motor is that a highflow 4-2-1 makes the midrange as beefy as you can get it (see our forum a picture of the crazy Mazda3 factory longtube 4-2-1 used on this same 2.0 motor to maximize torque in that heavier car). Sadly, most folks only think Horsepower and do not understand torque is what you actually feel pushing you back in the seat, and maxing area under the TORQUE curve of the ND makes the ND the fastest you can make it short of adding boost.
Note the first converter in the factory header is removed with install of any performance header on ND and that will raise the exhaust sound level.
Factory first O2 sensor is in the OEM header and stays in our header without use of extension cords. Factory second sensor in the midpipe should be moved after the factory midpipe converter to avoid an engine code (our special length midpipe included in this combo provides bung in that location for this reason). That second sensor reaches its new location without use of extension cords. Bottom line is full plug and play install install...but we strongly suggest our Orange Virus or MotoEast Tune as critical to getting maximum torque results in a safe manner.
CARB NOTICE: Installing this header in the MX5 Miata means removing the first catalytic converter which means this header will NEVER be a California street legal header, never be CARB approved (and therefore legal in California for off road use only).
BRIAN'S APPLICATION NOTES:
INSTRUCTIONS....see "Header Installation" thread in our forum in the Instructions Section for copy on page 7 of that thread of factory service manual header install (torque specs in that pic). Otherwise very simple except much easier with two people. Note the flex joint at midpipe outlet is actually jointed inside such that with some force you can make it 'click' through a range of positions it will then hold, we did this to fit wide range of mufflers.
The integrated midpipe is made of 304 stainless steel and has a 200 cell per inch magnaflow 5" round catalytic converter and uses a 409 stainless shell. The header and midpipe combo will bolt to your stock or aftermarket muffler.
HEAR it now from inside the car with our Super Street Twin.
ONE BIG DIFFERENCE from our shorty header setup is that we took the opportunity to stuff the biggest possible resonator in the midpipe. We did this for several reasons, including that it enables use of all our mufflers and not just our header specific SuperQ. Having more of the exhaust system in the midpipe also gives the racers the lowest polar moment possible. Nonetheless, IMPORTANT to note the midpipe resonator is so big it hangs down between the rear wheels and becomes the lowest point under the car (with that low point between the wheels we expect most will get over speed bumps without issue since the tires will still lift the car in time to clear the resonator). At the resonator's lowest point, it is 2" lower than the stock setup. That resonator placement is a small cost for enabling use of all our mufflers with this setup.
Unlike our mass produced standard length header that is made in batches of 100 units at time, this longtube is a hand made piece of art, labor is beyond 25 hours per unit, initial supply will be limited, we expect to start shipping first orders by early July.
Now HEAR it with our smallest muffler, the RoadsterSport Race pictured on our BLUE ND above:
WARRANTY: This is made for the Racers first and foremost. With that thought in mind, and with the expectation that this item will see MUCH more abuse than our other systems, this system does not carry the lifetime warranty of our other RoadsterSport brand choices. But we do include a standard 12 month warranty on this item that includes shipping both ways. Coverage on the midpipe converter is referred to Magnaflow for warranty. Magnaflow converter warranty: Federal cats warranty: Internal (converter substrate): 2 Years 25,000 Miles. External (converter housing assembly): 5 Years and 50,000 Miles.
INSTALLATION NOTES: Given the big size of the resonator we suggest those actually racing give extra support by swapping the factory rubber hanger for the midpipe with one of the thickest rubber hangers from the rear. Two people doing the install makes it much easier, having a lift makes it much easier, thus professional install suggested. Start with removal of shock tower brace, disconnect passenger side motor mount, disconnect two bolts holding coolant lines to chassis above header (no need to drain coolant). Remove factory header and studs holding the header to motor. Before jacking up the motor one person from above can lower header to one person below the car, once it is down as far it will go you will find you need to jack up the motor for it to drop the rest of the way into position. Currently fitment is MANUAL TRANS and LHD only, no promise is made of ever fitting RHD or automatic but if we get the chance to check fitment we will update this sentence accordingly. With some force you will discover that you can change the angle of the flex joint in the midpipe, once your muffler of choice is bolted up make sure you have at least half inch clearance between muffler tip and plastic bumper cutout, and as needed you can yank down on the exhaust tip as your other arm pushes up on midpipe exit flange and you will feel the flex joint change angles until you get the necessary clearance. Note we have found there is risk with our RACE muffler of melting bumper cut-out if not careful, only our Race muffler has tip that is not rolled, which means it gets really hot. All our other mufflers with rolled tips do not share that risk. You will find the setup takes both factory O2 sensors, one up front just like factory setup and second sensor after converter just like in factory setup (the only difference is sensors are moving downstream a little because first converter is downstream).
Dyno Graphs! This is a third party dyno, we do not own it. We do not run the dyno, we do not run the car on the dyno. We deliver the car to the dyno and ask the operator to run consistent practices every time. Brand of dyno here is DynoDynamics. Baseline shown below was 139 hp but motor was new and tight, figure that number would have come up a bit with more miles even with no changes. All the longtube units sold to date have been sold with the graph below in this product description, and we hit that 180 number on two different days after many hours of tune work in the car same day by Mat of Orange Virus Tuning (and hit even higher on a third day of back-up runs as explained in greater detail in our forum ND Development thread). A number of first customers have not replicated our numbers using other software packages, lower octane gas, other brands of dynos, and CLUB versions. We have found that software being used by ALL Tuners for ND Miata is still in crude early development stage, it was two full years with NC before tunes became stable and we expect the same with ND. We have also found massive variation from one ND to another ND even when equipped the same, running on the same dyno, and we suspect some of the difference is car to car variation in knock sensitivity, and we have seen that octane level can make a BIG difference in the high compression ND. We also suspect CLUB versions ship with more aggressive tune from the factory simply because each CLUB we have tested shows a stronger baseline before any mods, as much as a full 10hp stronger than our GT versions on same dyno (so expect Club versions will gain less if they are starting with more baseline because of better stock tune). Test below used 95 octane.
For comparison Dynojet results below with lower 91 octane fuel, ECU pulling 5 degrees timing.
Somebody emailed us about similar peak HP number with 4-1 shorty header and asked if it was better bang for the buck. The answer depends on whether or not you understand anything about cars and torque versus horsepower. If all you care about is peak HP, then a 4-1 design is good for similar peak HP at high rpm but it will be 20 ft/lbs of torque weaker in the low rpm range where you actually drive the car daily. Thus, if you want the FASTEST and most FUN car to drive then you want the most FAT TORQUE CURVE you can get, because total area under that torque curve is what the joy of the Skyactiv motor is all about...and it is that torque actually pushing you back in the seat.
Turning top scratch time at last SCCA Autocross in San Diego for 2016, latest spec Midpipe here with SuperStreet single tip muffler at the back, easily passing restrictive sound limits here (limit here is 93 DB at 50 feet).