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All POLISHED stainless steel construction and LIFETIME warranty. Uses stock hangers.
Brian's application notes: The Abarth 124 does not have a resonator in the midpipe but has a muffler, the standard 124 has a massive resonator in the midpipe and a muffler. Even if you do not get our 2.5 inch Crosspipe, this midpipe without resonator and our Dual or Quad exhausts is MORE aggressive on sound than Abarth version 124 from the factory. Picture shows resonator but NO resonator in this version of the midpipe! If you get this no resonator midpipe we strongly suggest our dual tip muffler delete which is adjustable for sound, so that you have the option of adding the baffles back to reduce sound, and you can add our optional packed baffles to further reduce sound.
INSTALLATION: No paper instructions in the box from the factory, all installation instructions are posted in our forum so they can be a living document augmented with notes from customers with tips from the community at large. Install of this midpipe precisely the same as our NC Generation Miata midpipe, right down to same hardware and gasket style, see our FORUM NC Midpipe installation titled: "Roadstersport Midpipe Installation NC, ND, Fiat 124" for instructions, torque specs, tips and hints for making it easy, etc.
1. Unbolt braces blocking your access to the midpipe.
2. Unbolt the flange at both ends of factory midpipe (two bolts each).
3. Lower and remove factory midpipe.
4. Notice that replacement midpipe has a slip joint in the middle. The only mistake that folks sometimes make is that they shove the slip joint all the way together. Instead of doing that, realize that the slip joint is there as your friend so you can adjust length as you need it to match the flange of the stock header, aftermarket headers, and any muffler on the back end. The slip joint also allows you to adjust height that the midpipe hangs at. Make it short to raise the midpipe. Make it longer to lower the midpipe. And move it right or left by twisting at the slip joint. With these thoughts in mind, lube up the joint with dish soap and connect two halfs of the midpipe but keep the clamp in the middle just barely snug for now. Match the new midpipe to the rough length and orientation of the factory midpipe that you already removed by laying them side by side on the garage floor.
5. Now raise the new midpipe into the car, bolt the front half to the header exit, connect the single midpipe hanger, and thread the bolts for the rear flange connecting midpipe to muffler (open and slide the slip joint as needed to make this happen).
6. Now look at how it hangs. Adjust the slip flange so that the midpipe hangs where you want it. To tighten your bolts start at the front flange which connects to the header and get the flanges all nicely lined up evenly and then bolt those down first. Then head back and adjust slip joint until you get the flange that connects to the muffler nicely lined up and flat and bolt that flange down. Torque to about 25 foot pounds (if you don't have a torque wrench the Harbor Freight $15 torque wrench works really well for the price).
7. Lastly, torque the clamp that holds the slip joint and reinstall braces that you pulled for access. Slip joint bolt to just 15 foot pounds, just 10 foot pounds for the relatively small brace bolts.