RoadsterSport NC Sway Bar Combo

DESCRIPTION

Best Value Sways. Our RoadsterSport Sway Bar Kit is the perfect sway bar match for the daily driver at a price that no other sway combo can match with these features. Pairs great with our Progress springs or our numerous Coilover choices for the road, autocross and/or light track duty.

Included In Each Kit:
*Front Sway Bar: Tubular 29mm OD / 4mm wall, FOUR adjustment holes per side!
*Rear Sway Bar: 16mm solid, 3 adjustment holes per side.
*Locating Collars on the bar that other kits near this price lack!
*Polyurethane Bushings and Steel Brackets

BRIAN's APPLICATION NOTES: Our Progress Bars remain top of the food chain as our best bars, and my suggestion for any customer planning regular track days is spend a bit more for our higher rate Progress Sways. These were developed on our Budget NC Racer project as a budget alternative that is all about max bang for the buck and though we tested them on track my suggestion is that these are aimed more at dedicated street customers seeking a sway upgrade on a budget. IF the question is whether our Progress Bars are better, the answer is YES our Progress Bars are better and the better choice for the track and autocross enthusiast (higher spring rate for even flatter turns, better finish, best hardware). But if the budget is under $300, nothing out there comes close to the features we packed in this budget option at this price level. Four adjustment holes front and rear for LOTS of adjustment potential with bar rates that make a big difference over stock. If track days are in your plans our Progress Bars will serve you best, but for the money nothing is close to these budget bars. All hardware included, and the grease, making a complete setup at a great price!

Endlinks? Stock links are fine at stock height. When you change to a stiffer sway bar AND you lower your MX5 you likely want adjustable endlinks for good geometry (bar ends level as possible), and in the rear you need shorter links to maintain adequate clearance between the sway bar and subframe. Thus, those lowering the Miata see RoadsterSport Endlinks for the front for any amount of lowering, and our same RoadsterSport endlinks will work for the rear if lowering only a mild amount, OR if lowering more than 1" then consider extra short links that can go below 80mm length like the SuperPro rear links.

Tested by our entire team at numerous local Autocross Events, many Top Time of Day results on our Budget NC Project, and many track days too including 3 days of back to back at Laguna Seca Raceway for the ultimate in torture testing!

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INSTALLATION...EASY STUFF AHEAD:

1. Open BOTH ends of the box to find the hardware. Jack the rear of the car up and secure it with good stands, no need to remove the tires. Unbolt the top of the endlink on both sides of the car. Careful, the endlinks should be unloaded but can still pop up or down with considerable force. You will need a socket and a standard wrench, both 14mm, for this job. The bolts are also pretty tight, so watch those knuckles. Once the ends are free, remove the four bolts holding the center D-brackets in place and take the bar off the car.

2. There are three endlink holes on the new bar which allow you to fine tune the balance of the car, we suggest you start with hole nearest the bar ends.

3. Apply a thin smear of included grease to the inside of the bushings before wrapping them on the bar. Fix the new bar and bushings onto the chassis and cinch the nuts down hand-tight. Note that orientation of bar is with middle of bar, the angle bend, pointing upwards. Push the endlinks into place and fasten hand-tight.

4. Put the car back on the ground to settle the suspension. Finally, snug up all the hardware good and tight. Tighten the center brackets to about 12 to 14 lbs.-ft, same for endlinks.

5. Now for the front bar. Jack up the nose as high as possible, and this time take the tires off. Remove the (disgustingly oily?) plastic front splash pan, then unbolt the top of the end links just like you did at the back. Remove the four bolts that hold the center brackets. On cars with a/c it can sometimes be hard to get the bar out past the hoses, so be ready for some coaxing.

6. Slide the new bar more or less into place, then grease up another set of bushings and install them onto the bar. Bolt everything back up with the included brackets, even out the bar from side to side, and hook up the endlinks last (we suggest you start with FOURTH hole from bar end at both sides). You'll notice that in the front, the ABS wires are held to the subframe by a small little bracket very close to the sway bar bracket. Two spacers are provided to move each of those brackets up and off of the sway bar bracket/bolt, with a longer bolt also supplied to pair with that spacer.

7. Lower the car to the ground to settle out the suspension, then reach in and final-tighten all the fasteners. Raise the car once more, refit the plastic splash pan, and you're ready to put the car down for its test drive. The front install should take less than an hour, and again there are no real hassles to watch out for. Best of all, no alignment changes will occur from swapping out either bar.

After making a major change to the suspension like we did here, you need to resist the urge to dash off to your favorite twisty road and push the car to its limits. For a little while, those limits are again unknown to you, so probe the new feel carefully. The chassis feels so much flatter with a lot better grip through the comers that a false sense of security often settles in. While beefier bars will make the car hunker down flatter longer, they also diminish the amount of warning you get of impending trouble. Get to know the car's new over- and understeer limits again before you get too cocky! Though we suggested some mild settings for starting we suggest SCCA Autocross events as the best place to really learn and test and tune in a safe environment the new setup to your particular balance preferences!