PART NUMBER: 61-2123D
The BEST DEAL in Sways ANYWHERE! Our RoadsterSport Sway Bar Kit is the perfect sway bar match for the daily driver at a price that no other sway combo can match with these features. Pairs great with our Progress or RoadsterSport springs for the road or light track duty.
Included In Each Kit:
*Front Sway Bar: 27mm OD / 3.6mm wall, 3 adjustments
*Rear Sway Bar: 16mm solid, 3 adjustments
*Bushings and Brackets
*Bushing lube
BRIAN's APPLICATION NOTES: Our Progress Bars are for the Track/Autocross and hardcore canyon carvers, these are high value and balanced choice for dedicated daily drivers. Three adjustment holes front and rear for LOTS of adjustment potential with bar rates that make a big difference over stock without going full race stiff. All hardware included with grease, making a complete setup at a great price! The BEST choice for casual daily drivers seeking to make the car more flat and fun in the turns. If track days are in your plans, better to spend a bit more for our Progress Sways. For starting settings most folks should be MIDDLE hole at each side of the front bar and SOFTEST position for rear (holes nearest bar ends of rear bar).
Endlinks? Stock links are fine at stock height. When you change to a stiffer sway bar AND you lower your MX5 you likely want adjustable endlinks for best geometry (bar ends level as possible). Thus, those lowering the Miata see RoadsterSport Endlinks, item 61-1795ND.
See our forum for installation methods/tips for ND sway bars.
Second Generation kit included a number of small tweaks to our original design to further improve geometry and installation ease.
Building on this, the new THIRD Generation kit features deep grooves molded in the inside of the sway bar bushings to aid in grease retention:
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I bought a sport because I got a great deal (new).
I only "street" my ND but I've added upgrades:
Wheels (17") tires, Feal coilovers and an LSD.
I noticed that when I took the entrance to the highway, the car really LEANED.
My son suggested swaybars. I bought links for the front; Brian said that the stock rear links are fine for the street, so that's what I did.
Some people claim that swaybars do nothing for street driving. They are clearly wrong.
These provide a perfect low rumble for my ears. As suggested, I tried one baffle only in my SSST tips, but preferred the sound with both. It's enough to know it's not stock but not loud enough to be obnoxious.
These sways keep my street car fun and level in the corners without sacrificing the advantages of an independent suspension. My OEM sway weights front/rear were 4.6# and 2.8#. These are 7# and 5#. I used the middle setting for the front and soft setting (outer hole) for the rear. In this configuration, I have just a little oversteer. I may try moving both up to a stiffer setting after a while, but this seems to be a good combination.
If you are reading this, then you too have decided that you'll no longer tolerate the excessive body roll of stock sway bars! LOL.
Dollar-for-dollar, this is the BEST uprade you can do PERIOD. I've researched to near exhaustion on all the after market sway bars and concluded Good-Win has the best overall value with the close second being Flyin' Miata.
I do all my own maintenance so I'm somewhat mechanically incline but I was still little intimidated based on all the reviews I've read. So I gave myself 8 hours to complete the install but I got it done in less than 4 hours on jack stands by myself. A friend offered to help but this is one man job. I think having an extra person working on it would made it more cumbersome.
I've watched several install videos on YouTube but by far, Flyin' Miata has the best instructions. After watching it several times, I felt comfortable.
For the most part, the install went without any issues. There are 2 things I would highly suggest that'll make the overall process much easier: 1) When removing the radiator hose nut (the one in front of sway bar), loosen the end links and brackets first so that you can move the sway bar around to give yourself more room to access the nut. I don't know why they didn't do it this way but it much easier instead of removing the belly pan. 2) When removing the top nut on the sway bar bracket, don't use a box wrench! There's very little clearance between the top bolt and subframe so your wrench will get stuck. I almost couldn't get it out and this took me over half an hour of sweating and swearing! LOL
Other than that, follow everything else as is and you'll be just fine. Easy-peasy.
The final result... now it feels like a proper sports car! This is how it should have been came from the factory. I didn't like the suggested middle setting so I went with full stiff at front and full soft at the rear. It feels very dialed in.
My advise, don't hesitate on this and just do it! You'll be so very happy you did.
Arrived without any problems. Installed it on a lift with 2 club members. Total install front and rear was done in 2 hours, 35 minutes. Only difficulty was removal of the old front stabilizer bar. Several You Tube videos were a big help. I used Super Lube synthetic grease rather than the supplied grease, based on the recommendations of others.
The vehicle now corners without any noticeable body lean. No squeaks or rattles. I am very satisfied with the purchase.
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