PART NUMBER: 61-3390
The MAXIMUM performance radiator for the MX5. Period. Compared to our 32mm triple pass radiator which is a direct fit, this thicker 42mm version requires trimming of some plastics to make it fit. But for those big power or race builds that need every bit of cooling, this is the answer!
High-demand cars - especially those running turbochargers, as well as racing applications, need every bit of cooling ability you can squeeze into the car. This new 42mm thick version of our triple pass radiator builds on the massive success of our existing 32mm version, increasing the core thickness to the absolute most that can fit in the NC. This radiator still works with the factory fan, mounts to the factory locations, and just requires some trimming of the surrounding plastic. Solves all of the problems that come with a custom multi-pass racing radiator, which come with massive price tags and are not direct-fit; requiring custom brackets, don't fit with factory fans, and so on.
Our Triple-Pass radiator is the first of its kind; a cross-flow, triple-pass configuration using racing radiator technology throughout, designed specifically for the NC, and doesn't have the price tag that comes with "custom". Fits with the factory brackets, fans, and hoses.
- Triple-pass flow design makes the water pass fully from one side to the other through the radiator THREE times instead of ONCE, more efficiently using ALL the frontal area of the radiator and giving the water more time to shed heat.
- Advanced fin and tube technology:
Utilizes CSF's specially-engineered "B-tubes" which are made from thinner and lighter aluminum but are still stronger than conventional 0-shape tubes. The core features louvered fins with a denser packing. More fins per inch than standard cores means more surface area for cooling and thus dramatically higher efficiency.
- 42mm core for maximum cooling ability.
BRIAN'S APPLICATION NOTES: Our original project triple pass radiator for the NC started after I compromised a normally aspirated 2.5 liter motor in my 2006 'Project Blue' during a hot August autocross day despite having a performance all aluminum radiator in the nose at the time. The motor didn't actually fail but got briefly hot enough for piston ring tension to be seriously compromised with resulting loss of peak horsepower measured at 20 percent on the dyno a few days after... OUCH. We ended up rebuilding that motor with high compression pistons and I had learned a lesson on giving an upgraded NC as much cooling as available when any track or autocross use is planned. At about the same time we decided to push our supercharged 2.0 2007 to over 300 hp and found we needed more cooling in that NC than our current selection of radiators could provide. Thus, we learned that for those racing boosted 2.0 and 2.5 and those racing even normally aspirated 2.5 we suggest our 32mm triple pass radiator is a critical insurance policy that saves you money in the long run! Works great in combo with our singular hood vents (which draw even more air through the radiator). We released our 32mm triple pass radiator several years ago and it has been the key to reliability for many at the race track or running boost. Fast forward to today, and these days we are seeing more and more NCs being built to power levels rarely seen a few years ago. Now NCs are being turned out with 400, even 500 hp. Those cars are running turbos to get there, and water cooled turbos in particular shed a massive amount of heat into the cooling system. Thus a need for a radiator even more extreme than our 32mm triple pass arose. This 42mm version takes up the maximum amount of room available in the NC before you have to start cutting and removing metal from the chassis. You only need to trim plastic to fit this radiator. The big 42mm core gives you increased coolant capacity and maximum heat shedding.
This 42mm version has NOT been confirmed to fit with Automatic Transmission.
INSTALLATION NOTES:
- The factory radiator hoses will install as-is on this radiator. However, we like to trim 1.25" of length off the driver's side hose on the end that connects to the radiator for perfect fitment.
- Do not try to re-use the factory spring clamps that hold the hoses on the radiator. Those clamps wear out over time, and the nipples on aftermarket radiators can have tiny variations in diameter from the factory ports, so you don't get adequate clamping with the factory spring clamps. We recommend changing those clamps out for worm clamps, which you can get from any auto parts store. This ensures you can tighten the hose down appropriately and have no leaks. You MUST check clearance to condenser, factory condenser installs not real consistent and you want to make sure nothing will rub a hole in the new radiator, bend condenser brackets for clearance as needed.
- May require trimming of surrounding plastics, including radiator fan shroud.
Along with triple pass radiator upgrade we also recommend upgrading your water pump to the Gates Premium Performance Water Pump with MUCH better fin geometry and construction, part number 61-3814 on our site.
On our Budget NC 2.5 liter for three FAST days at Laguna Seca Raceway:
Also a prime reason our Supercharged 07 with built 320 hp motor has been safely racing that motor for a full decade!
Video clip below doing Laguna front straight in 10 seconds, if you want to go fast like this, you need this kind of cooling!
MIATA MX5-NC 2006-2015
MIATA MX5-NC 2006-2015
MIATA MX5-NC 2006-2015
MIATA MX5-NC 2006-2015
Beautiful radiator. Didn't want to damage it, so... I removed the P/S "cooler", and had my friend who does HVAC come scavenge my AC so I could remove the condenser. Could you make this fit without removing them...? I did this solo, maybe you can do it with help... doubtful though.
As the installation notes mention, you need to bend the condenser/ P/S bracket, the black elbow. Top right of the condenser. A bench vise would have been great but I got by with 2 vise grips. ***ALSO*** the bolt holding this elbow to the P/S cooler WILL dig into your condenser fins if you do not bend the bracket properly. I got lucky and caught it before too much fin damage occurred. This is why I say you need to remove them and test fit because this radiator is almost 3x as thick as the stock one, you need to clearance a lot.
On the fan shroud, the 4 tabs that hold it to the radiator, I removed the slopes from them. Meaning where it started to slope down, I cut on that line. This radiator secures the shroud with 4 bolts and lock washers, and they just dig into the plastic to secure it to the radiator. So you want a flat surface, the edge or slope was not allowing that to happen. On the bottom of the fan shroud, the support arm with the hose holder, I cut the corner off of. When trying to fit the radiator it would bump a power steering line on the rack.
The battery tray needs to have some shaving done to the outside, or you can use it as an excuse to relocate the battery to the trunk. A file works great.
When burping the radiator, I wouldn't use the no-spill coolant funnels where you could put a bunch of coolant in. The way the radiator sits and something about how the NC flows coolant, you literally just need to use a normal funnel and stand there and keep filling it as it drinks, heat on full blast. I almost overheated the car by using one of those funnels and there was some weird water suction stuff happening and I spilled a lot of coolant lol don't use them on an NC.
I also have the Moroso tanks and HPS silicone hose kit. Definitely trim the end that goes onto the radiator a smidge like their notes suggest.
Top questions, does it fit, does it work and any drawbacks?
Absolutely fits. Trick to get in place, just take your time if keeping A/C like I did. If you evacuate the A/C, installation would be easier and you would be able to install with fan in place. With A/c you have to slide the radiator between condenser and fan in the car. And yes, front cover and lower air dam need to come off for installation.
Works as I would expect. Have built many cars and have come to expect instant cooling after a hard run. This radiator does that along with water pump upgrade. Factory always runs between 195 to 212 degrees. This unit makes your thermostat work with temps between 179 to 195 and yes that is during this heatwave as of late.
Drawbacks, can't say there are any but you will loose the two fresh air ducks on the sides that cool your battery and ECU. Trust me with Track Dog max cool installed, not a issue. Also if you have Progressive sway bar in front, it rubs the fan housing a little, also, not really a big issue.
One big thing to look out for with A/C. Check and double check the lines. The one from the compressor and the liquid lines needs to be caressed so that don't rub the radiator or body.
In closing, the more I move towards turbo day and find these weaknesses in the car. Can honestly say weather NA or power adder, with this upgrade you never have to worry about the cooling system again. That if you add the expansion tank too.
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