DO YOU NEED HUBCENTRIC RINGS?
Gen 1 and Gen 2 MINI Coopers have a 56.1mm hub bore size.
Hubcentric rings fit into the larger bore size in the back side of the aftermarket wheel and reduce the inner diameter down to that 56.1mm size to ensure that the wheel is centered on the hub, even before the lugs are tightened down. It's a nice bit of low-cost piece of mind knowing that you can't end up with a wheel off-center due to incorrect lug nut tightening. Particularly for the MINI which uses lug bolts instead of studs and lug nuts, it also makes installing the wheel much easier. However, hubcentric rings are NOT mandatory. The lug nuts seats are conical for a reason; as long as you tighten the lugs correctly (done by hand and in a criss-cross pattern) then the wheels self-center as the lugs are tightened. However, some shops don't take the time to correctly tighten lugs, they just zap them on with an impact gun, and that is not good enough. So, you don't have to use them, but they won't hurt and they're cheap insurance. As a rule of thumb, the racers know they don't want hubcentric rings because they know what they're doing and the rings just become an extra thing to worry about... but if you're asking if you should get hubcentric rings, then the answer is probably "yes" for you. Note that all our hubcentric rings are sold as sets of four, so order just quantity one for a set of wheels.
WEIGHT: ADD LIGHTNESS!
MINI Coopers are sensitive to what is called unsprung weight (which can best be understood as what hangs off the car's suspension rather than what sits on it). We therefore strongly recommend that you use only light weight wheels for your MINI like those we sell here. We have a wide range of flow formed wheels that are both lightweight and very strong, and because we specialize in small lightweight cars that tend to be sensitive to unsprung weight, we weigh each wheel that we carry and we list those weights on our site to help you with your wheel selection decision.
Keep in mind that the wider you go with the wheel and tire, the more weight that adds. Certainly, a high quality lightweight wheel like the ones we sell will minimize this, but there is still no avoiding the fact that the same wheel model will be heavier in 9" wide compared to 7" wide. Thus wide wheels tend to reduce some of the fun and nimble handling characteristics that these cars are so loved for. Racers will usually push the limits of the widest wheel possible so they can get as much tire under the car as they can because more grip equals faster lap times, but for a fun car that isn't being used competitively we strongly suggest staying with 8" or narrower wheels. Consider that even the hardcore JCW Challenge race cars run a 17x8.5" wheel, so you don't need a massive 10" wide wheel to have fun and go fast.
16" WHEEL SIZES
In the 16" wheel range, there are options in 7", 7.5" and 8" wide. All of our 16x7 and 16x7.5 wheels range from +43mm to +35mm offset and those are your easy fit options; they are plug and play without concern about your alignment settings, assuming no wider than a 225 tire on them.
For the wider 16x8, those are all offered in +38 to +35mm offset, and with those you want a 205/50/16 or 215/45/16 size tire, and you need to have some negative camber in the alignment (at least -1.0 degrees front and rear) to avoid tire rubbing.
Tire diameter: Gen 1 MINIs can come with a few different wheel sizes from the factory, but they all use a tire that is around 24" tall. Most of the popular tire sizes for aftermarket wheels on the MINI are around that diameter as well; 215/40/17 for example is 23.9" tall. Our fitment notes assume a similar diameter tire. Running a taller tire may increase the likelihood of rubbing.
17" WHEEL SIZES
In the 17" wheel range, there are options from 7" to 9" wide. Note that our fitment info applies to stock ride height or mildly lowered cars. If your car is 'slammed' then you may encounter rubbing where cars at reasonable ride heights would not.
17" wheels are large enough that clearance to the inner shocks/struts becomes a more significant area of focus. Different coilover manufacturers place their lower spring perch in different positions, and have different diameter bodies, so clearance can vary from one brand to another.
17x7 with +40mm offset or MORE is your easy fit option; they are plug and play without concern about your fenders or alignment settings, assuming no wider than a 215 tire on them.
17x7 with +35-38mm offset and the 17x7.5 +35mm are a little more aggressive; they get the 'flush' look, but you need to make sure that you have some negative camber in your alignment to aid tire to fender clearance. (at least -1.0 degrees front and rear)
17x8 are primarily offered in +45 and +40 offsets. The most popular tire size for 17x8 on a MINI is 215/45/17. With that tire size, the +40 is usually plug and play as long as you have a bit of negative camber in the alignment, and may only require a slim spacer to fine tune inboard clearance depending on the shocks/struts used. The higher +45 offset may require more spacer thickness to clear the shock/strut, again depending on the specific dimensions of the parts being used on the car.
17x9 is for racers willing to modify their fenders and make adjustment so they can run 235 or 245 tire sizes.
Tire diameter: Gen 1 MINIs can come with a few different wheel sizes from the factory, but they all use a tire that is around 24.0" tall. Most of the popular tire sizes for aftermarket wheels on the MINI are around that diameter as well; 215/40/17 for example is 23.9" tall. Our fitment notes assume a similar diameter tire. Running a taller tire may increase the likelihood of rubbing.
TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System)
Gen 1 MINI Coopers (2002-2006 Hatchback and 2005-2008 Convertible) do NOT use actual tire pressure sensors within the wheels. Instead, the car's computer simply monitors the speed that each wheel is turning, and if one wheel begins to turn faster than the other three - which would happen if the tire pressure drops, thus reducing the tire's diameter - then the TPMS light is triggered. This is good news for those seeking to put aftermarket wheels on a Gen 1 MINI as it means that there's no added complication of needing to buy and install new tire pressure sensors with your new wheels and then sync them to the car. For your new MINI wheels you can use standard valve stems, and as long as tire pressures remain even in all four wheels you won't trigger the TPMS light. If that light does come on, first check your tire pressures, and if all is good then simply reset the light.
LUG BOLT SIZE: 12MM OR 14MM?
All MINI Coopers come from the factory with lug bolts instead of wheel studs and lug nuts. The positive side of this is that the lug bolts take a 17mm socket, so unlike our notes that you'll see on most wheels that strongly encourage MX5 owners to get aftermarket lug nuts to fit in the tight lug holes in aftermarket wheels, for the MINI your factory lug bolts will work just fine, as long as you aren't using any wheel spacers. If you do want to add spacers, you'll need longer lug bolts, or a stud conversion kit.
If you do want or need new lug bolts, there are two sizes your car might take. MOST of the 1st Generation MINI Coopers had 12mmx1.5 threads; all cars from 2002 up through June 2006 production date. In July 2006 they changed to 14mmx1.25. You can check your car's production date by looking at the placard in the door jam - it will list a month and year. If yours is a July 2006 car that was right amidst the change over, then we would suggest removing one lug bolt and measuring it just to confirm 100% which size you have.
Some aftermarket wheels are made with 12mm holes, so those with late 2006 cars with 14mm studs need to be aware that not all wheels will fit for them. The good news is taht all of our modern flow formed KONIG and ENKEI wheels have lug holes that can accommodate both 12mm and 14mm studs. The one wheel model NOT compatible with the 14mm bolts is the Advanti Racing Storm S1. That wheel has lug holes only large enough for the 12mm bolts. Late '06 cars would need to get a 14mm to 12mm stud conversion kit to run the Storm S1.
15" WHEEL SIZES
15" wheels are for those looking to minimize unsprung weight and seeking a gearing advantage for competition use like autocross where a shorter tire slightly improves acceleration. The tradeoff is that the lower gearing means higher engine RPMs at cruise.
15" wheels can also come with some clearance complications with the suspension due to the small diameter. Recommended only for those who are willing to do some work with test fitting and making adjustments as needed.
15x7 +30mm is an easy fit, and should get a 195/55/15 or 205/50/15 tire.
15x7.5 +35mm uses the same tire sizes as 15x7 above, and may require addition of slim 3mm or 5mm spacers to fine to inboard clearances.
15x8 in +28mm to +25mm offset are common sizes very popular for autocross racing. That offset typically gets the barrel of the wheel outboard enough to clear suspension arms. Popular tire sizes for that wheel are 205/50/15 and 225/45/15. These tires are around 23" tall (about 1" shorter than stock). That shorter tire helps with avoiding tire contact with the fender compared to a taller tire, provided that you have enough roll resistance with coilovers with stiffer springs suitable for race purposes. If you are just using a relatively soft lowering spring, the suspension may be able to compress enough that the tire hits the fender.
Wheel Care
Most modern wheels are clear coated just like the paint on your car. Therefore, do NOT use anything on your wheels that you would not use on your car's paint. Only clear coat safe products should be used on wheels. We like to put a coat of fresh car wax on new wheels before we put them on our cars here, helps keep them clean.
BRAKE DUST: Brake dust can be corrosive. Some brands and compounds in particular are known for eating up the finish on wheels, especially if the dust gets sprayed on the wheels when hot at the track and then left there for 24 hours or more, particularly with some overnight dew/moisture or lots of UV gets added to the mix. Some brands' compounds are less corrosive than others, but as a rule of thumb it is always best to keep your wheels clean. Nothing more than normal soap and water is needed. Before leaving the track, we find a hose and rinse brake dust off.