PART NUMBER: 61-1735
Fits both 2.0 and 2.5 motors. Works with factory and aftermarket engine mounts such as our 40% stiffer rubber mounts.
Drops the 2.5L motor to the same effective height as the factory 2.0L. This lowers the center of gravity for better handling and allows the 2.5L to fit underneath the factory shock tower brace. With these you can also fit our MP62 supercharger to the 2.5L motor without needing to cut the hood for clearance.
Previously, the only way to lower the engine was with special engine mounts only available in "race" durometer, and those mounts transfer huge vibrations into the chassis. We set about designing these brackets so that you can lower the motor while still retaining rubber engine mounts that keep the car enjoyable for all uses. (Specifically our GWR rubber Competition Engine Mounts part number 61-1713)
Use these on your 2.0L motor to lower the engine's center of mass within the car for a competitive advantage.
Works with the OEM engine mounts and aftermarket mounts.
Kit includes two drop brackets and eight washers. Stack four washers in the bracket's mounting cup for each bracket to take up the unthreaded length on the stud so that the nut can tighten down fully on the stud.
This version fits with most aftermarket headers including our standard Max Power header and our street header. However, it DOES NOT clear Long-tube headers or our new larger 1.8" Max Power header. Note that lowering the engine means lowering entire exhaust system, this can mean you need to space braces under the car down with some washers to create more clearance for midpipe.
INSTALLATION NOTE: If your factory bolts for the bracket to engine block are 40mm long, you will need to replace those with 30mm length bolts (M10). BRIAN'S APPLICATION NOTES: Only recommended for the customer seeking room on top of 2.5 conversion to use MP62 blower, most 2.5 customers should skip this option to run our big 1.8 inch primary header.
MIATA MX5-NC 2006-2015
MIATA MX5-NC 2006-2015
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I have a 2.5 conversion with a Fab9 Turbo on top. I had the AWR lowering mounts, (not my choice) which were extremely noisy and rough. I switched to these with the 40 durometer OEM lookalike mounts. Several cautions with these brackets.
As noted, you will need to replace the bracket to engine mounts with shorter 30mm long, 10mm X 1.5 bolts. I recommend that at least one of them be a cap head bolt with washer, for reasons listed below. Also as noted, there is no mounting boss for the clutch line so you will need to use a small piece of rubber hose to protect the hard clutch line, and zip tie to the bracket when you are done.
Unless you plan on pulling the engine, the driver side (left) bracket is very difficult to install, due to poor design and fabrication.
The mounting plate was drilled with a dull bit, or drilled too fast, because the mounting holes have burrs, which are powder coated. This makes it impossible to insert the mounting bolts perpendicular to the plate, and you will cross thread the bolts. (Keep a 10mm x 1.5 tap on hand. Ask me how I know. ) Save yourself some grief and use a Dremel tool to grind and smooth the bolt holes first.
The mounting point on the bracket which connects to the mount itself makes it nearly impossible to install the mount after bolting the bracket in place. It is easier to pre-assemble the mount, paying attention to the angle of the bracket to the mount. Compare the assembly to stock if possible.
The strut that extends from the bracket blocks the rear most mounting hole on the mounting plate. There is no room for a socket or box wrench, and you will need to use a stubby 15mm end wrench, tightening the bolt about 1/6 of a revolution each pull, through a small opening in the frame. If you substitute a cap head bolt, it will be easier, and you can apply enough torque to tighten the bolt with the allen wrench.
Next, fish the assembly into place, and first insert and start the rearmost bracket bolt (preferrably a cap head bolt and washer) to the engine. Then insert and tighten the other two bolts. Finally, tighten the rear most bolt from under the car. God help you if you are using a hex bolt in this location. Finally, lever the motor mount to frame bolt into the hole in the frame, playing with the jack to get it close enough to force the bolt into place.
When everything was in place, my Helmholtz midpipe still cleared the frame brace by about 1/8". Sound and vibration were almost eliminated, so it was worth the effort. But a better design on the lowering bracket would save hours of frustration.
2.5 l conversion I did on my own. Brackets are very nice and lower the engine just right. The only thing I would make you aware of is that with my car, I had to buy 6 M10 by 30 mm bolts and washers because the stock ones (40 mm) bottomed out without touching the brackets. My car was built in Dec 2005, no idea where the brackets changed.
Got these to compensate for the 16mm extra height in the just finished 2.5 conversion along with the GWR Competition motor mounts. Fitment is great with the exception of slightly shaving down a motor mount bolt and the need for a washer or two. Additionally, the factory motor mount brackets these replace have mount holes for the clutch hydraulic line. These do not however, a 3 inch split length of a larger diameter hose to protect and a couple of tie straps cures that. Negligible concession considering the benefits. Besides, they look awesome!