RoadsterSport Fiat 124 HighFlow Midpipe

DESCRIPTION

NOTE that the version for Manual transmission with resonator is sold out and discontinued. If you have a manual, we only have the non-resonated midpipe available. If you have an automatic, we have both resonated or non-resonated available. If you have a manual and want a resonated system, look to our System One exhaust for the Fiat 124.

Full 2.5 inches all the way through this midpipe adds both sound and faster turbo spool. If you want the Abarth sound you want one of our mufflers and this midpipe if you select the resonated midpipe. Made to connect correctly ONLY with our matching RoadsterSport Exhaust items, all factory mufflers and most competitors use much smaller tube and flange sizes that will not connect to this unit.

Brian Application Notes: The Abarth 124 does not have a resonator in the midpipe, the standard 124 has a massive resonator in the midpipe. Our midpipe includes a resonator but much less than stock system, ideal for those who want to get the full power of adding our Crosspipe without getting beyond the sound level of the Abarth version. Thus, if you do not get the Crosspipe, this midpipe and our Dual or Quad exhausts are just a bit more mild than Abarth version.

Instructions, PRINT FOR YOUR INSTALLATION, PRINT FOR YOUR INSTALLATION SHOP:

1. Unbolt braces blocking your access to the midpipe.

2. Unbolt the flange at both ends of factory midpipe (two bolts each).

3. Lower and remove factory midpipe.

4. Notice that replacement midpipe has a slip joint in the middle. The only mistake that folks sometimes make is that they shove the slip joint all the way together...which pulls the muffler tips at the back too far to passenger side of the car. Instead of doing that, realize that the slip joint is there as your friend so you can adjust length as needed. The slip joint also allows you to adjust height that the midpipe hangs at. Make it short to raise the midpipe. Make it longer to lower the midpipe. And move it right or left by twisting at the slip joint. With these thoughts in mind, lube up the joint with dish soap and connect two halfs of the midpipe but keep the clamp in the middle loose enough to slide for now, and keep bolts at both ends loose. Match the new midpipe to the rough length and orientation of the factory midpipe that you already removed by laying them side by side on the garage floor.

5. Now raise the new midpipe into the car, bolt the front half to the Crosspipe exit, connect the single midpipe hanger, and thread the bolts for the rear flange connecting midpipe to muffler section (open and slide the slip joint as needed to make this happen).

6. Now look at how it hangs. Adjust the slip flange so that the midpipe hangs where you want it. Look at muffler delete in the rear tip cutouts, if too far to passenger side then that means midpipe too short at midpipe slip joint. To tighten your bolts start at the front flange which connects to the Crosspipe and get the flanges all nicely lined up evenly and then bolt those down first. Then head back and adjust slip joint until you get the flange that connects to the muffler nicely lined up and flat and bolt that flange down. Torque to about 25 foot pounds (if you donand#39;t have a torque wrench the Harbor Freight $15 torque wrench works really well for the price).

7. Lastly, torque the clamp that holds the slip joint and reinstall braces that you pulled for access. Slip joint bolt to just 15 foot pounds, just 10 foot pounds for the relatively small brace bolts.

BRIAN'S APPLICATION NOTES: The FACTORY midpipe is all crunch bends, crunched down well under 2 inches in several places, which delays turbo spool and limits top end power. The only way to get full benefit of your turbo is go clean mandrel bent pipe, ideally 2.5 inches all the way like our RoadsterSport Midpipe.