PART NUMBER: 61-1247ND
For our SCCA CS Class racers here is FRONT BAR by itself (legally can only change one bar for this class).
Progress MX5 anti-roll bars dramatically improve handling. How? They minimize the traction-robbing body "lean" that rolls part of the outside tires off the pavement. Our Sport-tuned Anti-roll MX5 Miata Sway bars replace skinny OEM Miata Sway bars and rubber bushings with larger diameter (stiffer) alloy steel bars and polyurethane bushings.
More roll stiffness means less body "lean", and the tires stay flatter on the pavement (larger contact patches). The result is more grip and added driver control!
-Less body roll means more traction, faster cornering speeds, and increased driver confidence.
-Polyurethane bushings produce crisp response on turn-in. Progress Anti-roll bars are cold-formed in-house using custom-built precision bending equipment. Laser-cut and CNC bar ends are MIG welded in place using a precise fixture for an exact fit that is more durable than alternatives used by some other choices.
-Size: FRONT 28.5 mm (hollow bar; 6.35mm side-wall)
-Adjustment Range: Front 3 holes
-All sway bars are powdercoated metallic gray.
-One year limited warranty
Our low profile Endlinks recommended to properly reach all the front holes.
Application Notes By Brian: The only reason we sell front bar individually is for SCCA Street Class customers limited by the rules to one bar upgrade, and note that for SCCA Street class we have to do a lot to fix the balance issue that upgrading just front bar will cause, including running front KONI SPORT soft relative to rear KONI SPORT at full stiff, and stiffer rear bumpstops relative to front. If not racing in SCCA Street class, then you want the best balance that comes from getting our combo of Front AND Rear sways sold elsewhere on this site.
FIAT 124 2017-2020
FIAT 124 2017-2020
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As mentioned by some other reviews, the install takes a while, it took me around 3 hours on jack stands. I took the other reviews advice and used the FM method and that went well for most of it, but removing the sway bar end up and over the frame rail on the passenger side is a pain. It takes a bit of force as you have to deal with the rubber bushings on the stock sway bar. I would recommend having someone help guide the other end of the sway bar at this point because you need to make sure you don't damage the wiring or fender on the driver side. I installed the end links in the middle hole as suggested.
As for driving, the difference in handling is night and day. I was driving on some on-ramp/off-ramps that have long curves and the car seems so planted now. Even in roundabouts, the car has minimal body roll and it is so much fun. I can't wait to see how it performs autocrossing!
Installed alongside the Progress RSB. This is my first experience with sway bars, and I have to say: I'm impressed. The car stays almost completely flat in long, fast corners. This instills a lot of confidence.
The install was definitely time consuming. I used FM's method (fan shroud removal) because the instructions/pics that came with the bar were not too useful.
Definitely a little tougher install than usual but with some patience it's very possible at home
This bar fits perfectly and looks awesome! I have run one CS autocross without it and one with it on softest setting. Car had light understeer on entry but that will easily be adjusted out once shocks are available... The main difference that it makes is much less wheel spin due to less body roll. This helped to my best finish in 2 1/2 years.