PART NUMBER: 61-1824S
YES, confirmed fit both ND1 and ND2
It was believed to be said originally by Enzo Ferrari, and repeated later by Carroll Shelby, that Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races. The reason is quite simple, TORQUE is what helps you leap out of tight turns and pushes you away from stoplights, etc. In autocross and track events any advantage at the start of the slower sections is advantage you carry to the end of each section, and torque is what you actually feel pushing you back in the seat. With that in mind, our headers here use a 4-2-1 layout which puts less emphasis on peak hp at top of rpms that you rarely use, and more emphasis on max low and mid range TORQUE that you can use every day, and for victory on race weekends. With the new generation Miata the factory went 4-2-1 on header layout for the first time, this is a much higher flowing version of the same 4-2-1 layout to give you the biggest torque curve possible in a standard length header.
Limited Edition Ceramic Coated. Our regular version is polished stainless, which will bronze and blue in response to the heat of use. As a result, got some requests to do bright silver ceramic coating over the polished stainless, which improves long term appearance and performance (about 3% better dyno results with the ceramic coating). Fits both LHD and RHD, manual and automatic.
Saves over 4 lbs compared to the factory header.
Stock header weight: 13.15 lbs
Max Torque header weight: 9.05 lbs!
HEAR it now from the tailpipe on the dyno! This full throttle with camera right at the tailpipe so this massively exaggerates the volume but gives you good feel for the character and tone at full throttle. You are hearing ALL THREE of the following here: RoadsterSport Max Power Header, plus the RoadsterSport Midpipe and RoadsterSport SuperQ Muffler. The midpipe and muffler obviously not included with the header, sold separate on this site.
HEAR AND SEE it all now from inside the dyno room.
Now take a ride in our ND with RoadsterSport Max Power Header, RoadsterSport Midpipe and RoadsterSport SuperQ Muffler (Header Version)!
Now details on our header and why you want it. For the FIRST TIME Mazda went with 4-2-1 factory header layout to make that fat midrange that makes the ND so quick. Many magazines get 0-60 in stock form at about 6 seconds flat, which is obviously not about the mere 155 hp that the factory rates this motor at the crank. We tested ND headers in 4-1 layout as we have done in the past on NC generation, and 4-2-1 layout and quickly understood the factory thinking...this motor is about TORQUE, and this motor wants a 4-2-1 layout to maximize what this Skyactiv motor is designed to do.
Thus, first thing to know about the Skyactiv 2.0 motor is that a highflow 4-2-1 makes the midrange as beefy as you can get it. Sadly, most folks only think HP and do not understand torque, but it is the really wide TORQUE curve of ND that makes it so quick compared to prior Miatas, and our humble opinion is that it is best to play to that strong point, give the ND skyactiv motor what it wants!
The ND will run okay with the header if you skip the tune but it is a VERY complex motor and tune and you do NOT get all the gains if you skip the tune.
We strongly recommend the RoadsterSport SuperQ Header version muffler with this header because it was designed to handle the sound level of the header and our standard midpipe, most other mufflers will be too loud for most folks with this header change.
Quality header construction starts with mandrel bent 304 stainless construction, making this the ONLY MX5 Miata header choice proudly made in the USA with LIFETIME warranty on construction. Beware the choices that are just straight pipe and sharp 90 degree bends welded up in Taiwan and China, they will not last or give max performance in return for the trouble of installing them.
Our outlet is 2.5 inches. For best performance customers should match our header with our RoadsterSport midpipe and RoadsterSport SuperQ exhaust (special header version STRONGLY recommended) so they are running 2.5 inches of flow all the way...but our header will bolt in place of the factory header and connect perfectly to the factory midpipe (however doing that would mean an engine code unless you move second sensor after midpipe converter like our RoadsterSport midpipe provides plug and play).
Factory first O2 sensor is in the OEM header and stays in our header without use of extension cords. Factory second sensor in the midpipe should be moved after the factory midpipe converter to avoid an engine code (our RoadsterSport midpipe provides bung in that location for this reason). That second sensor reaches its new location without use of extension cords. Bottom line is full plug and play install.
CARB NOTICE: Not CARB approved (and therefore legal in California for off road use only). Note that there are states in addition to California that now follow the California model and require CARB compliance, please check the rules of your state before ordering, in some states this setup is legal only for race cars and may never be used on public highway. Sorry, we will not ship these to residents of California.
INSTRUCTIONS....see our installation discussion in the Instructions Section. Complete factory service manual install page with torque specs is below. Note there is ONE gasket included to mate with our RoadsterSport midpipe. We assume most customers will do it right and install our RoadsterSport midpipe at the same time for best torque results and because it avoids engine codes with O2 locations before and after the midpipe converter that you can reach without use of extension cords. If you are that guy that will not replace the factory midpipe then just know you are going to use again the factory ring gasket from the stock header which matches the factory midpipe flange, and you will need to weld up some O2 bungs before and after stock midpipe converter to avoid engine codes, and you will be choking some of the gains at peak rpm because stock midpipe diameter is a bit too small for max performance. Stock gasket at the motor to header flange is stack of stainless plates, not crush gaskets, and can be used over and over without issue.
I went with the ceramic header/mid/SuperQ, looong wait for stock & shipping thanks to, well, never mind that. At the same time, I added Progress sways and the Stoptech rotors/Porterfield pads kit.
Holy guac, total transformation!
Take Brian's advice about header with SQ muffler, it has plenty of character, especially when getting on it, and on the highway it's just as he says, GWR really hit the sweet spot. Seemed to run fine without it, but I added a Fab9 tune (thanks Bryan!) and the butt-dyno says there's an awesome mid-range torque bump followed by a snarly high-end charge that was not there before.
Pure giggles for me, loving it!
This header looks great, sounds loud, and changes the character of the car from whimsical street car to bad ass track car. For my track car, I paired this header with the Magnaflow Max power midpipe and the Roadstersport Race muffler. Obviously, I wouldn't recommend this combo for someone who wants to maintain quiet street driving. This is probably only a combo that you'd want for a track car or you really hate your neighbors because it's loud and raspy, but in good way and fits what a Miata is.
Very high quality product! Looks and feels premium out of the box and when installed. Fit and finish are just like stock and the ceramic coating takes it to the next level. Bung for o2 sensor works perfectly, no issues moving the sensor over. Links to the midpipe without any issues with the included gasket, new bolts are also included. I've installed this on my own AT tranny (yes yes, I know) and my friends MT tranny, experience was the same, no issues on either install. Just make sure to check the rest of the exhaust linkage to make sure nothing shifted during bolting it all together, so you don't have pipes touching frame, or in my case the linkage of the two midpipe pieces coming loose and generating some noise on startup, which caused and extra trip under the car to tighten it all again.
As detailed in some of the posts talking about the installs, the easiest way to install is to undo the passenger side engine mount and slightly jack the engine up, maybe 2" or so, and the stock header comes out and this header goes right back in without any problems. Much easier to do with 2 people, but possible to do solo. If you have any sort of stock or aftermarket shock tower brace, that'll need to come out also, to allow the header to come out through the top.
Nitpicking a bit here, but it would have been great to have instructions included in the actual header box that list torque specs and tools needed. It really helps to have some long extensions for the firewall side nuts and a small wrench for a bracket holding the stock header. Having done the research ahead of time, I had the info, but it would still be very nice to have. Ironically, the heat shield, purchased separately from GWR actually includes the sheet that details header nut torque specs :)
Once installed, with full exhaust system, it completely changes the character of the exhaust system. I'm running a non-GWR muffler, so while it's the same 2.5" opening, it's definitely louder than the SQ version, as reported by others. There is now growl and screaming as you accelerate WOT.
During calmer regular driving, more bass is very obvious and there's actually some drone around 1500-1750 rpm. As Goodwin notes upfront, their own mufflers with Helmholtz chambers get rid of that drone, but in my case I'm living with it for now.
In terms of power, I didn't dyno before/after, but the butt dyno says there's more power. Able to spin winter all-season tires into 3rd now if not being careful. Once it's warm enough and I can put the summer set back on, we'll see if they can grip enough not to waste all that extra power - at least 2hp!, but really seems closer to the 10-15hp that people that have dyno'd with full exhaust setups have claimed.
Overall, if you've been thinking about this, get it, you will not regret it. If you like to hear the roar under WOT, this sounds great. If you don't like additional noise, this is probably not the mod for you, but then you probably shouldn't be driving a convertible?
This header with the ceramic polish simply looked nice and sexy. The welds were great and the coating was super shiny.
The install was straightforward and the hardest part was removing the old header. Using a jack to raise the engine a bit definitely helped make room to remove the old one. Fitting in the new one took some maneuvering but wasn't nearly as difficult as removing the old.
I installed the header with the RoadsterSport midpipe and I already had the SuperStreet twintip exhaust. Everything fit nicely and I didn't have any exhaust leaks.
My biggest worry was that it would be way too loud with that exhaust. It was much louder and a bit raspy in the beginning but then it seemed to mellow out a little and have less rasp after about 300 miles. It is still loud but it's bearable. Quiet enough to cruise out of your neighborhood without disturbing the peace and roars when you punch it on the freeway. I did buy 2 glass packed baffles to try and lower the volume a little more but I don't think it made that much of a difference.
I am really happy with the header and you can really feel the difference it makes even without a tune. It pulls a lot harder than it did before and it's much more rev happy. I'm still waiting for a tune to be available for the ND2 but I can imagine how much more awesome the car will feel after a tune.
Definitely pair it with the midpipe. I haven't had a check engine light yet (and I don't expect to). I absolutely love how the car pulls, revs, and (even though a bit loud) sounds. It certainly puts an even bigger smile on my face. Goodwin-racing was very helpful and responsive when I had questions about the install.
Thanks Goodwin Racing!